As I look back on our trip we took last fall, I realize it was a sprint across the south. Not a lazy let’s just get in the car and drive and see where the road takes us. After 48 years of marriage, I’ve learned that the husband simply isn’t wired that way. He is an A to B person and doesn’t like the road less traveled, which is the only way to truly see this country. He wants to know exactly where he will lay his head at night. There is nothing wrong with that except I think I’m the complete opposite. I like the small little towns, like Middleton Place, that appear out of the blue as you’re coming down a mountain and entering a valley and you say to yourself “Oh, what’s this”. That feeling of magic.
As you drive along the Ashley River Rd from Charleston you begin to understand some things. Built by enslaved labor one bucket of earth at a time, this is a Scenic By-Way two lane road (for now) they want to widen this road. Of course the historical people and myself included say NO. You will be losing the whole experience if you do that. Ashley River Rd is close and tree lined on both sides.
It brings to mind that scene in the movie The Last of the Mohicans where the French take the Fort, and as everyone walks out, the Indians launch an attack. There are several plantations along this road. Magnolia Plantation and Drayton Hall are along this road as well. During the 18th Century the plantation residents would usually approach the home via the Ashley River itself because at times traversing the road was dangerous on multiple levels.
While driving along this road your imagination can run away with you and then you come across the road kill. Is that an armadillo, yup you don’t see those in NE. Then there was the wild boar. Eventually you turn into the drive that says The Inn at Middleton Place. Another tree lined road where you go thru a gate and come upon a small building where you check in. I thought we would need to buy tickets to enter Middleton Place, but our reservation already covered it.
We only had a room for one night and we wished we could have stayed for both nights. Unfortunately they couldn’t accommodate us for the second night. We enjoyed staying there the most during our entire trip. We picked up the key (yes a key) and drove to our room which was up several concrete stairs (not for the faint of heart) but so worth it.
Needless to say we were selective about the luggage we took into the room. We stepped inside and felt a pleasant surprise, immediately understanding why the rooms stand built so high.
You feel like you’re in a tree house, the room was simple and spare and absolutely perfect with natural stained paneling, a sliding barn door into the bathroom which boasted a wonderful bath tub shower combo.
Everything you need and nothing you don’t.
We learned that there is a dirt walking path along the Ashley River that will take you to the plantation and the house. It’s an easy walk relatively flat but incredibly quiet and peaceful.
Walking along the path, flora and fauna surround you, with the river and marsh stretching out to your right. I visited Middleton Place once before but never experienced the marsh in this way. The perspective differs entirely from what you see at the house. Middleton Place showcases renowned gardens, featuring the country’s oldest planned garden and the first camellias ever planted. Sadly, our visit took place in the fall. The movie The Patriot was filmed in the gardens and along the river.
Middleton Place as it was before the Civil War.
Here’s the revised version with the passive voice removed:
The Middleton family owned the property, which served as the birthplace of Arthur Middleton, a signer of the Declaration of Independence. The house and property stayed in family hands until 1974, when they created a trust to sustain it into the 21st century. Originally a rice plantation, the Yankees burned Middleton Place in February 1865, along with other plantations along the Ashley River Road, just two months before the Civil War ended. Restoration work on the South Flanker, the least damaged building, began in 1869, and it received its Dutch Gable Ends during that time. In 1886, the Great Earthquake reduced the remaining damaged buildings to rubble. The South Flanker endured, likely due to the earlier restoration efforts. Today, the rubble remains as a stark reminder of the Civil War.
We ran into this guy, a small alligator sunning himself on the pond bank. Only about 5-6′ long!
There was a group of Egrets and this guy drying his wings (the strangest sight). Anybody know what kind of bird this is? He was the same size as the Egrets and I was able to walk right up to him.
As we wandered over all the different paths, a surprise at every turn this dependency came into view. Inside it tells about the enslaved members of Middleton and how they worked the rice.
And then I met up with this guy! The husband said he thought it was a copper head. This city girl is not quite used to this kind of nature. The husband who is a hunter is very used to this, so he was always prepared and his eyes were constantly surveying the land.
We approached the house thru the barn yard where the sheep were grazing. It was so fun to actually be able to walk amongst them and they are so used to people they paid no attention.
The house isn’t that large and we weren’t allowed to take pictures. This part of the estate was the south flanker. It was never meant to be the main residence. Originally office space and gentleman guest quarters it only became the main residence after the restoration in 1869. Upon hearing that the Yankees were advancing along the Ashley River Road, the butler took charge of burying family heirlooms, valuable paintings, silver, and furniture. Thanks to these efforts, many of the original family artifacts remain with the house today. Many of the enslaved stayed on after Emancipation, including the butler who lived his life with the Middletons.
The next morning I got up around 6:00am and left the husband sleeping. I wanted to walk the property at the break of dawn. I can’t explain what a soul riveting experience this was for me. Nothing but peace, quiet and the sounds of nature beginning the day. I walked the entire grounds just me and no one else in sight. And, just for a moment in time it belonged to me.
Please, the next time you’re in this area, add it to your bucket list. The work they are doing here is so important to our national history. The story of the enslaved individuals is equally important as the story of the Middleton’s. The stables are open as well as a dining room where we had a fabulous lunch and the gift shop is fun. They have special events all year long. You can read about it here https://www.middletonplace.org/about/ The beauty is remarkable.
Thanks for stopping
Shelley
