When I first started looking for a house to tour while in Minneapolis, I knew I wanted to check out something on the infamous Summit Avenue in St Paul. A block known for its huge stately homes.
On the last day of our trip, my sister and I head out from the hotel, only to encounter detour after detour. A trip that should have taken us no more than 20 minutes ended up being an excursion of about an hour. Finally away from the rabbit warren of road construction, we start to make our approach atop a picturesque hill. What’s this? Wow a HUGE Cathedral leads our way. Looking for parking along the Avenue, I wish I had the steam to walk this street. By miracle I get a parking spot right out front, just like we were stopping by to say howdy do!
They offer self guided tours, or you can take a guided tour. We opted to wait for the guided tour. So glad we did. The tickets to this home were only 12.00 for seniors, a refreshing price, compared to what you pay at Biltmore!!! Or pretty much anywhere in my experience.
As we walked up to this 1891 home built in the Romanesque style, I quickly judge the book by its cover. Well this one is certainly not my style. Its red stone, and imposing edifice are way too heavy for my liking. But wait, there is a Porte Cochere over the front entrance. These covered carriage drop off areas always get me. Ok maybe there is hope. After all at 36,000 s/f there must be something, and the online photos, told me it was a good one. With 13 bathrooms, 21 fireplaces, and a 100′ long entrance hall, this home has to be interesting.
After approaching the Porte Cochere you travel up a few stairs and open the front door that sticks a bit. Enter into a vestibule that requires photos. The floor tile is lovely and the carving is exquisite. Oh this is going to be fun.
Turning left you go into a small ante room they call reception, where you set up your tour. Then you flow into the music room AKA gift shop, where you can buy books on the Homes of Summit Avenue, toys and games for your grandchildren, and other interesting things to take home. This is your first introduction to the Hills. Two gorgeous portraits on either side of the opening to the entrance hall.
Coming from hard working but, modest means, James J Hill, in 1878 purchased a defunct railroad, with his investors. For the next 20 years he worked to push the line into Canada, and west across the Rocky Mountains, and onto the Pacific Ocean. With its completion in 1893, the line became The Great Northern Railroad, and stretched from St Paul to Seattle. It became one of the major transcontinental railroads of its day.
Born to Irish immigrant parents in New York City, Mary moved to St Paul in 1850. Working at a restaurant in the 1860’s, Mary meets Hill. Engaged in 1864 she would spend the next three years at a finishing school In Milwaukee, in preparation for running an important household. They had 10 children, 7 daughters and 3 sons.
As I start to wander, the first room I enter is the virtually empty Art Gallery. Home to a gorgeous fireplace, I walk across the room to gaze at its lovely carved fireplace surround. A hearth of mosaic tiles, it is the carving that is the show stopper. The attention to detail and intricacy of the carving is amazing. I then turn around and gasp. An organ with pipes three stories high balance the opposing wall.
I look up to see what surely are gorgeous skylights, obscured now by a protective billowing roman shade. I think to myself, I want to see more of what’s underneath but, I know this is done for the protection of the interior.
I next start my journey down the 100′ Entrance Hall that has a majesty to it. It is quiet and uncluttered, void of extraneous furniture, so the magnificence of the carving shows through. I am amazed at the delicacy of the hand, that worked all this wood. Some areas feel as thin as a flower petal, and it is all in pristine condition. Like it was brand new. The blue/green ceiling gives the space a nice sense of calm.
There is a hyphen type space, to the left of the central staircase which I didn’t get a good picture of. Can you believe I forgot!!! It has a built in bench where you can rest your weary bones after making the 50′ journey to the center of the hall! But wait, there is a rope across the bench. That was for 100 years ago. Carrying on I wander into the library where more rich wood carving enhances the space.
Tucked into the corner of the library paneling is a small secretary, that I could imagine Mary sitting at, reading her correspondence. AKA the Gilded Age!
Another grand fireplace takes your breath away in the Library.
The mosaic tiles are gorgeous too.
From there I take a few steps into the Grand Dining Room. The table and chairs are original, and carved by the same team of master carvers. It seats 22 people and there are 2 rather large concave built in corner cabinets. The ceiling is gilded 14K with 3 layers of gilding. It looks as fresh as if it were done yesterday. Above the wainscoting the walls are goat skin leather gilded in silver. The room is dark and moody and of course the silver has tarnished to a wonderful burnished grey.
Fancy Accoutrement fit for Railroad Royalty. Then there is the little tiny morning room! I loved this space. Much simpler, lighter with a veranda right off. Guess where I would be drinking morning coffee. And yet another spectacularly carved fireplace.
It is said that after James J Hill’s death, Mary never used the dining room again, preferring to take all her meals in the morning room.
A turn about, led me back down the grand entrance hall, and a pause in the drawing room where we waited, for our guided tour to begin. Photos of the family are in this room. This is and elegant room and a grand size. I would have loved to see it furnished. Most of the furnishings in the home were either split up or sold after Mary’s death in 1925. None of the children wanted the home so it was sold to the Archdiocese. Which turned it over to the Minnesota Historical Society in 1978. In 1985 the home was opened for tours.
It has been my experience in touring historic homes, that each house has its “thing”. What makes it unique, be it grand or humble. This home really hit all the marks. Not my taste at all (about 100 years too late) I was impressed by the practicality of this home. The 100′ Grand Entrance served as the ballroom or for overflow dining. All the rooms were huge but still livable. You could tell a family filled this home, even sparely furnished, as it is now, you could imagine morning tea and luncheon on the veranda. Beautifully clad men and women, with their mischievous children sliding down the banister. Garden parties out back. This home is about the details. All the woodwork is the star of the show. Even more beautiful to my humble eye, than the Biltmore. This home wasn’t really about showing off. This home is about housing a family of 12 in comfort and style of the day. I’m so glad we took the time to tour this home, and will remember it fondly.
And, as you exit thru the front door this is what you see. “Surely goodness and mercy shall follow you all the days of your life.”
Thanks for stopping
Shelley
